After five mountains and two farmers’ markets in our first week, it was time for a break. It was Saturday, so we avoided the crowds and headed toward the “Quietside” of the island. This meant kind of a long bus ride but at least through some areas we hadn’t seen yet. Chloë is always well-behaved on the bus and frequently makes friends. With her distinctive red harness, we are now almost always recognized on the buses and sometimes on the trails.
We first got off the bus at the road leading to Bass Head Lighthouse, the only lighthouse on the island. It is not open for visits, as it is a private residence for the commander of the local Coast Guard, but we thought we’d go have a look anyway. It was about a half-mile walk from where the bus dropped us off and then a short trail down to the lighthouse. I’m just learning that there is actually a trail down either side, but we only did one. I’m hoping the other one is more scenic because I didn’t even bother to take a picture. Oh, well.
We walked the rest of the way into the town of Bass Harbor, another mile beyond where we had started. I found what appeared to be an honest-to-goodness locals’ joint, Maine-ly Delights, tucked away next to the Swan’s Island Ferry Terminal. Things were turning around (see photo above). I finally got my requisite Maine lobster dinner. I like lobster, but I hate that, in places like Bar Harbor, restaurants are charging 10 or 15 times what a lobsterman gets for his catch. This was the perfect place to have my lobster: on a vinyl covered giant spool out in the brilliant July sun, overlooking a harbor full of lobster boats.
Mark does not have the same compulsion to eat lobster while in Maine, so he went with the chili dog. We got a cup of clam chowder and a side of onion rings, in addition to the fries that came with my dinner. I started with a sedate glass of ice tea, but Mark went rogue with the raspberry milkshake (chock full of actual raspberries!) Conveniently, the bus would pick us up right there, but by the time I finished my lunch, we still had 20 minutes or so to wait. I tried to resist, but I was overcome by desire for my very own milkshake with, you guessed it, actual blueberries! Lest you think I’ve forgotten something, Chloë got her own hot dog. She also shared heartily in the rest of our lunch: french fries, onion rings, clam chowder, lobster and, of course, blueberry milkshake. That’s how you do lunch.